With his Fall/Winter 2011-2012 collection for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs explored the mysterious allure of fashion and fetish. At the heart of the collection, crystallizing its central theme, was a magical object: the Lockit handbag, created in 1958 and revisited in a myriad guises – each one an intricately worked and painstakingly crafted objet du désir.

Monogram Fetish

The most familiar of the bunch, the Lockit comes in the classic Monogram canvas, reinterpreted with an ultra-glossy patent finish in line with the collection’s play on extremes of matte and shine. Key elements of the design, such as the padlock from which the Lockit takes its name, are also covered in Monogram canvas, with touches of ivory resin – for the key holder, for example – providing a delicate counterpoint.

Monogram Fetish Lockit Clutch MM
Size: 3.8″ x 7.5″ x 3.1″
Price: US$2420

Monogram Fetish Lockit BB
Size: 9.8″ x 9.4″ x 3.9″
Price: US$1560

Monogram Fetish Lockit
Size: 13.8″ x 15.3″ x 6.3″
Price: US$3050

Monogram Fetish Lockit Voyage
Size: 22.8″ x 21.6″ x 8.3″
Price: US$5000

Pulsion

The Lockit recurs in a second total-look theme in shearling, with even the handles and key holder covered in winter’s warmest and coziest material. Super adorable. My friend and I even call this bag the ‘plushie’.

Pulsion Lockit
Size: 11.8″ x 15.3″ x 7.5″
Colors: Caramel, Gris Perle, Marine
Price: US$3450

Pulsion Lockit Voyage
Size: 22.8″ x 21.6″ x 8.3″
Color: Marine
Price: US$6100

Monogram Desire

This version of the Lockit features the iconic Monogram pattern woven into a sophisticated nylon jacquard in strict black or navy, reflecting the collection’s focus on uniform. Tonal resin handles and hardware complement the design, while the larger of two sizes can be folded over and carried from its shoulder strap.

Monogram Desire Lockit Vertical MM
Size: 15.3″ x 18.5″ x 5.9″
Colors: Noir, Bleu
Price: US$2350

Monogram Desire Lockit Vertical GM
Size: 20.9″ x 19.7″ x 4.3″
Colors: Noir, Bleu
Price: US$2890

Cuir Obsession

Louis Vuitton played not only with texture but also with proportion. The horizontally stretched Lockit East-West in matte rubberized calfskin is accented with glossy tape. For this line, which also features the tiny Lockit BB, the emblematic key holder is integrated into the bag in an ingenious tromple-l’oeil effect.

Cuir Obsession Lockit East-West
Size: 19.7″ x 14.6″ x 5.9″
Color: Noir
Price: US$4050

Cuir Obsession Lockit BB
Size: 9.1″ x 9.4″ x 3.9″
Color: Gris
Price: US$2820

Monogram Addiction

At the opposite end of the scale, the medium sized Lockit Vertical comes in matte rubber with the Monogram pattern in lustrous three-dimensional lamé embroidery.

Monogram Addiction Lockit Vertical MM
Size: 14.6″ x 16.9″ x 3.9″
Colors: Bleu, Marron
Price: US$2970

Monogram Fascination

This line plays on the juxtaposition of matte and shine. Patent lambskin, for example, renders the season’s sumptuous mustard, emerald, and pearl gray hues to perfection on the classic Lockit, contrasting its shiny finish with Monogram embroidery in matte bouclette, with the Lockit BB Frame looks deceptively demure in black.

Monogram Fascination Lockit BB Frame
Size: 10.2″ x 9.1″ x 3.5″
Color: Noir
Price: US$2820

Monogram Fascination Lockit
Size: 13.4″ x 14.6″ x 5.9″
Colors: Moutarde, Vert Fonce, Gris
Price: US$4550

Les Extraordinaires Devotion

Finally, the season’s two Extraordinaires are the classic Lockit and the small Lockit clutch in patent alligator. Both take the fetish theme to the extremes seen on the catwalk, the former with a golden brass chain, the latter with a chain and handcuff to attach the woman forever (or not) to her Louis Vuitton bag.

Lockit Clutch PM Devotion
Size: 10.2″ x 5.5″ x 2.8″
Color: Anthracite
Price: US$15,000

Lockit Devotion
Size: tba
Color: Perrier
Price: US$33,000

Images via Louis Vuitton