Eternally chic, forever feminine, the Louis Vuitton woman takes the transition from summer to winter in her stride with a Pre-Fall 2012 collection that builds on the House’s signature looks and sassy, sophisticated style. Inspired by the effortless elegance of Charlotte Perriand, the collection fuses military details and manish checks with rounded volumes, opulent fabrics and luxe embellishments in an array of desirable, wearable pieces with instant appeal.
Leading the line-up, soft cocoon shapes and swathes of fur in a rich autumnal color palette are a warm, reassuring presence as temperatures fall. Some silhouettes give a discreet nod to previous Marc Jacobs collections for Louis Vuitton, among them a check balmacaan coat with leather details and its matching A-line skirt, a fake fur bubble skirt with military pockets, and a yellow crepe cady baby doll dress that is sweetly reminiscent of summer. Silky fur adorns many of the season’s standout pieces, be it on the fox collar of a camel bonded cotton jacket with sporty buckle closures or the pockets of a sleeveless black wool baby doll dress for evening, or else in the luxurious form of a short green and black mink jacket shrugged over a pleated, color-blocked dress in silk and satin.
In the spirit of Marc Jacobs’ signature cool chic, overtly feminine pieces are toughened by masculine influences, as when a powder-camel wool skirt with fox fur pockets is teamed with a beige leather biker jacket, or a silk duchesse bonded jacket in bold check is belted over a yellow T-shirt dress delicately embroidered with flowers. Even when she wears trousers, the Louis Vuitton woman remains flirtatious and feminine – witness lustrous gold cropped jeans and a matching jacket, the iconic Stephen Sprouse leopard motif reinterpreted on a sharp mohair jacquard suit and a midnight blue grain de poudre tuxedo paired with the shortest of shorts.
Pre-fall 2012 shoes and accessories take up the key themes of ready-to-wear. Shoes revisit Spring/Summer’s Fifties-inspired pumps, whose simple shape, with a pointed toe and slender heel, is dressed up in opulent materials – pony-styled calf leather, glazed calf leather, satin and, most spectacularly, fox fur – and extravagant embellishments, notably Louis Vuitton studs and padlocks on metal toe caps.
Accessories spotlight mink collars and cuffs, studded leather or leopard-print berets and slim belts in the collection’s bright accent colors or embellished with studs and eyelets. Fashion jewelry features crystal resin on studded chokers and – in another reminiscence of previous seasons – bejeweled metal collars. To shield her eyes from the glare of autumn sun, the Louis Vuitton woman dons a pair of folding mirror sunglasses, which – thanks to an ingenious rotating hinge, she can also wear as a necklace.
Photography: Mark Segal
Models: Nyasha Matonhodze, Valerija Sestic, Xiao Wen
Art Direction: William Snieg
Images via Louis Vuitton / Mark Segal