The silhouette of the Prefall 2013 collection is based on the Spring-Summer 2013 Fashion looks. It retains the same elongated lines, combined with different lengths, but markedly and purely reminiscent of the Sixties. Nevertheless, the feminine Pre-Fall 2013 silhouette recalls the understated elegance of Jeanne Moreau in Truffaut’s film “The Bride Wore Black.” Elements of men’s late nineteenth century apparel and opulent yet austere details create a more intellectual, dramatic tension. The Pre-Fall 2013 heroine reflects the solemn glamour and sombre grace of a very young Romy Schneider. This neo-aristocratic refinement is reflected in the choice of lace, which makes quite a presence in the collection yet is still subtle.
Echoed in trompe l’oeil print, on jacquard or tweed, the lace mimics the effect of a mantilla or small veil, creating a touch of mystery. Velvet riboon edge details, sheared mink collars emulating velvet, feathers and grey rhinestone studded heels reflect the refinement of the late nineteenth century garb depicted in the Impressionists’ paintings exhibited at the Musee d’Orsay. Some of the jackets mirror the styling of the men’s frock coats in Caillebotte paintings, and the tailoring details are like those Louis Vuitton himself employed.
However, the Marc Jacobs touch at Louis Vuitton stands out with a cool attitude and playful luxury that takes clothing construction more seriously than attitude. Subtlety is the rule. The subtlety of references has dominion.
Images via Louis Vuitton